Chama is famous for it's politics and infighting. That is probably why it is still such a backwater. There is one store accross the street from the 'Hotel' where this guy tells these stories without end. I just wanted to buy some film and he started telling this story about Texas and the oil fields that had no end. I finally just had to walk out. The train was whistling to leave and he was still talking. My impression of the merchants there is like hungry lions just waiting to pounce on you as soon as you walk in. They want your money but are unfriendly and unhelpful.
Personally, I prefer Antonito, a really nice laid back town and the people are friendly and helpful, plus it's only an hours drive to Chama from there.