Yes, I have ridden the China-Vietnam railway inside China, there used to be a suburban passenger train in Kunming (now abandoned). The remainder of the railway is freight only, hauled mostly by 1984-built diesel hydraulics (which are older than most of the Chinese industrial steam engines); I have photographed a large portion of this by biking the line in 2013.
There are two tourist trains running on the line, one in Jianshui City (on an old branch-line) and another in Kaiyuan (on the mainline through a very scenic area.
I am unsure how much freight service remains, I was last there in 2015.